Spicy and chewy tteokbokki is one of the most popular snacks of Koreans. The ubiquitous food carts that are seemingly found along every street entice hungry children and adults alike with savory red tteokbokki and eomuk (fish pasta).
However, today¡¯s tteokbokki differs greatly from the traditional version. In its original form, tteokbokki, which was then known as gungjung tteokbokki, was a dish served in the royal court and regarded as a representative example of haute cuisine. The original tteokbokki was a stir-fry dish consisting of huintteok (white rice pasta) combined with a variety of ingredients, such as beef, bagogari (dried slices of gourd rind), mung-bean sprouts, parsley, Shiitake mushrooms, carrots, and onions, and seasoned with soy sauce. Since the original tteokbokki was seasoned with soy sauce rather than red pepper paste, it was simple in taste while the rice pasta¡¯s firmness complemented the fresh vegetables. In addition, the five different colors of gungjung tteokbokki - red, yellow, white, black, and blue - xhibited the zealous vigor of Korea. Moreover, with the various ingredients combining to provide a well-balanced meal, gungjung tteokbokki could well be regarded as a health food.
From Royal Court to the Masses
The Siui jeonseo, which was written in the 1800s, contains the following reference to tteokbokki: ¡°Although it is prepared in the same manner as other stewed dishes, tteokbokki also involves cutting rice pasta into slices and then stir-frying briefly. The same ingredients that go into other stewed foods should be included, with the exception of flour mixed with water. ¡°This citation seems to indicate the original tteokbokki was regarded as a stewed dish that should be gradually boiled with seasoning and water, which did not involve stir-frying with oil. The preparation method was similar to that for tteokjjim.
The Ganpyeon Joseon yori jebeop, a cookbook compiled in 1934, includes recipes for tteokbokki and tteokbokki byeolbeop. The recipes list more diverse and more refined ingredients - rice pasta, beef, pork, Shiitake and seogi mushrooms, eggs, green onions, parsley, carrots, walnuts, and gingko nuts, which are seasoned with soy sauce, sesame oil, and salt.
Tteokbokki was regarded as a high-class traditional food that required an assortment of ingredients. Then, how did this traditional version become the tteokbokki of today that is made with red pepper paste? The first known reference to peppers in Korea is found in Jibongnyuseol, written by Yi Su-gwang in 1613. According to this source, hot chili peppers, which were introduced by way of the southern states, were thought to be poisonous and thus tended to be avoided initially. Prior to the introduction of red peppers, Koreans used Sichuan pepper, ground pepper, mustard, and green onions to enhance the spiciness of foods. Spicy hot peppers, which quickly spread throughout the nation, soon became one of the basic ingredients of Korean food. Moreover, the widespread use of red peppers served to significantly impact the color and taste of Korean food.
The range of foods in Korea to which red pepper is now added, including kimchi, is truly remarkable. Red pepper not only became one of the essential ingredients of kimchi, but was also the primary ingredient of the traditional seasoning gochujang (red pepper paste). Indeed, gochujang¡¯s savory taste and bright redness are enough to stimulate the appetite. As a result, the Korean people, who have long favored spicy and savory foods, began to prepare ever more dishes with red pepper paste.
In the past, it was commonly believed that the color red had the ability to ward off evil spirits. Thus, it was thought that eating spicy red pepper could help to drive away the evil spirits hidden within your body. Red pepper was also used as an antidote to treat poison. The Ojuyeonmunjangjeonsango, which was written in 1850, contains the following interesting advice: ¡°When a person has to take a trip in the middle of winter, he should wear a body pouch filled with peppers, and also stick red peppers into his beoseon (traditional socks) prior to his departure. Pepper¡¯s stimulating effect on your blood circulation can help to ward off the cold. In addition, peppers can also be used as a weapon, like a pepper cannon.¡± In this way, peppers came to be a everyday staple of Korean life.
Although there is no known historical data that explains how tteokbokki with soy sauce seasoning evolved into today¡¯s version with red pepper paste, it is likely that Koreans naturally added gochujang to their tteokbokki preparation upon introduction of the chili pepper to Korea. As gochujang became readily available, it firmly established itself as a primary ingredient of virtually all Korean foods.
Evolution of Tteokbokki
After the Korean War (1950-1953), a small store in Sindang-dong, Seoul started to sell tteokbokki with thin flour pasta and seasoned with spicy red pepper paste. With destitution being so prevalent and rice in such short supply in the war¡¯s aftermath, Koreans had to satisfy themselves with a simple tteokbokki of stir-fried flour pasta, instead of rice pasta, with red pepper paste. Nevertheless, its bright redness, which helped to stimulate the appetite, spiciness, and the chewy flour pasta proved to be a hit with the public. Tteokbokki was thus regarded as an affordable and tasty snack during this difficult period when people struggled to overcome serious hardship. Over time, other ingredients, such as eomuk, ramen, mandu (Korean dumpling), and egg, were added to the mix.
To better appeal to contemporary tastes, various kinds of tteokbokki have since been introduced: haemul tteokbokki with various vegetables and seafood (haemul), such as squid, shrimp, turbo, and mussels; and japchae tteokbokki that includes rice pasta, glass noodles, and vegetables. The emergence of fusion tteokbokki, such as cheese tteokbokki and curry tteokbokki, has served to pique the interest of the younger generations. Tteokbokki can be expected to undergo continuous adaptation to keep pace with Koreans¡¯s changing tastes and preferences.
Court Tteokbokki
Ingredients: rice pasta, beef (50 grams), 2 Shiitake mushrooms, carrots (50 grams), 1/4 cucumber, 1/4 onion, 1 egg
Sauce: soy sauce (4 tablespoons), sugar (1 tablespoon), chopped green onion (2 tablespoons), chopped garlic (1 tablespoon), sesame salt (1 teaspoon), sesame oil (1 tablespoon), pepper (1/2 teaspoon)
Preparation
Cut rice pasta roll into 4-centimeter sections and slice lengthwise into 4 pieces.
Scald rice pasta pieces in boiling water, rinse in cold water, and brush with sesame oil.
Slice beef, cucumber, and onion lengthwise.
Soak dried Shiitake mushroom in water and cut into strips lengthwise.
Season beef and mushrooms with soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, ground pepper, and sesame salt.
Prepare sauce by combining soy sauce, sugar, green onions, garlic, sesame salt, sesame oil, and ground pepper.
Fry seasoned beef, mushrooms, rice pasta, carrots, onions and cucumbers in a pan, add the sauce, and simmer until the ingredients are cooked.
To serve, garnish with thin slices of fried egg
Red Pepper Paste Tteokbokki
Ingredients: rice pasta (200 grams), eomuk (40 grams), cabbage, green onions, and other vegetables
Broth: anchovies (20 grams), sea kelp (10 grams), 1 clove ginger, 3 cloves garlic, 4 cups water Sauce: red pepper paste (2 tablespoons), sugar (1 tablespoon), soy sauce (1 teaspoon)
Preparation
Saut¡¯s anchovies briefly to reduce fishy taste. Add sea kelp, ginger, garlic, and water, and boil for 20-30 minutes. Strain the broth.
Scald rice pasta pieces in boiling water.
Cut eomuk into bite-size pieces. Add red pepper paste sauce to the boiling broth.
Add rice pasta and eomuk, and simmer over low heat. Various vegetables can be added based on personal preference.
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Glossary
